Cremophor CO 40

Cremophor CO 40®

INCI: PEG40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Cremophor® made by BASF is a very versatile non-ionic solublizer and emulsifier. It can be used to make clear water based sprays, as well as lotions. Cremophor CO40® will form clear solutions with any combination of water and alcohol. Since it contains no water, it may also be used as a dispersing agent in water-free products, such as bath melts (see below).

This table shows example compositions of essential oils and fragrance compounds. Note that even a small amount of alcohol (ethanol) greatly reduces the amount of Cremophor® which is required. Glycerin or propylene glycol additions may also reduce the amount of Cremophor® required. Glycerin is also used as a fixative in some perfume formulations since it can slow the evaporation rate of many fragrance compounds.

Scenting Material

Ethanol : water 20% : 80%

Water 100%

Essential oil, (1%)

Cremophor ® CO 40 (%)

Cremophor ® CO 40 (%)

Thyme oil

5.0

9.0

Spruce oil

4.0

9.0

Rosemary oil

3.0

7.0

Lavender oil

3.0

7.0

Sandalwood oil

2.0

7.0

Mouthwash aroma

2.0

6.0

Synthetic rose oil

1.0

2.0

Bergamot oil

1.1

2.5

Geranium oil, African

1.4

1.4

Eucalyptus oil 80/85%

0.5

0.6

Lavender oil

1.2

1.5

Patchouli oil, Singapore

1.1

2.5

Peppermint oil, double rect.

1.2

1.1

Vetiver oil, Reunion

1.5

1.6

Isophytol

1.5

2.1

Linalool

1.5

1.5

Linalvi acetate

1.1

2.0

Nerolidol

2.1

2.1

Methyl anthranilate

0.9

2.1

Perfume composition, (1%)

 

 

Classical Fougère note

2.0

6.0

Fresh citrus, pine note

2.0

9.0

Hydrophobic active substance, (0.2%)

 

 

Bisabolol nat.

0.5

1.0

alpha-Tocopherol

2.0

6.0

Vitamin E acetate

3.0

5.0

Fragrance oil (2%)

Black Raspberry Vanilla

n/a

10.0

Pear Glace

n/a

10.0

Directions for Use

Making clear fragrance sprays is easy using this simple method.

Cremophor CO40® should be melted before use. It may be readily melted by immersing the capped bottle in a warm water bath or by heating carefully in a microwave. It melts just above room temperature. Mix the fragrance compounds into the pure Cremophor CO40®. Combine Phenonip, if required, with the Cremophor CO40®. Add this mixture to the alcohol, if used, and blend well before adding any water.

Combine the glycerin with the water. Add water slowly with good stirring to avoid cloudy solutions. The viscosity will initially increase as water is added, reaching a maximum at 40 % water, and will decrease greatly as more water is added.

Rapid additions of water may result in cloudy mixtures. Slow, careful additions with thorough mixing is required.

After Shave

Phase A

3.00 oz. Cremophor CO 40®

0.10 oz. Menthol crystals

0.50 oz. Fragrance or essential oil

Phase B

60.00 oz. Formulator’s Alcohol

Phase C

3.00 oz. Panthenol

33.40 oz. Water

Citric acid as needed to adjust to pH 5

Melt the Cremophor CO40® and combine the menthol and the fragrance with it. Add a few menthol crystals at a time and ensure that they have dissolved before testing and adding more.

Slowly add the alcohol to this mixture using a whisk. Combine the panthenol with the water and add it slowly to the alcohol mixture. Adjust the pH to 5 using citric acid.